Author Topic: In Depth Paintwork Decontamination Guide (Read 30510 times)

Bertie · « **on:** January 22, 2015, 03:25:57 PM »

How To Decontaminate Your Paint

In this thread I'll give a detailed description of how to decontaminate your paint. This will remove iron spots, tar deposits, as well as any other bonded contaminates in your paintwork and wheels.

Products Required:

Auto Finesse - www.shop.autofinesse.co.uk

Pressure Washer
Fully Washed Car
Paint Work Decontamination Kit - £39.95

The Kit Contains;

ObliTARate - Tar Remover
Iron Out - Iron Deposit Remove & Deep Wheel Cleaner
Clay Bar
Glide - Lubricant For Clay Bar

How To Decontaminate Your Paint

1. Firstly wash your car thoroughly using the method posted in the Car Washing thread.

2. Apply OlibiTARate to the lower halves of your car, as well as on wheels and the bonnet. Allow this to sit for 3-4 minutes. You will see it start to loosen and dissolve the tar spots. Then, lightly mist a microfiber cloth with some Finale detailing spray, and wipe away the tar spots.

3. Next we remove any iron spots in the paintwork. Spray Iron Out liberally onto your wheels, bonnet and lower portions of the car. This will turn purple as it starts to break down any iron deposits, you will be surprised how much builds up in your wheels! Allow this to work for 2-3 minutes, then rinse off using a pressure washer.

4. Clay Time. This can be quite daunting if you havent done it before, but its actually easy and straightforward. For best results, clay one body panel at a time. Break off a small portion of clay, and mould it into a rectangular chunk that will fit nicely in your hand. The key here is providing plenty of lubrication on your paint to reduce any scratching or marring.

Starting with the bonnet, spray on plenty of Glide, then apply very little pressure, run the clay in long straight lines over the paintwork. Constantly top up the lubrication, you should always be spraying more on as you work the clay.

After you complete each section, fold the clay over to a new clean side. If you run your hand over the paint and it still feels lumpy, keep working at it but with no pressure until the bonded contaminates are out. The paint should feel silky smooth if its done properly!

5. You can also use your clay on the wheels if they are old and have clearly visible bonded contaminates. Just make sure you use a completely different piece of clay than the one you use on the bodywork.

6. Rinse off the whole car with fresh water, and pat dry with a drying towel.

After decontaminating paint, it is a good idea to apply a paint protection, be it a synthetic polymer coating or wax.

If you have any questions or advice tips, please feel free to post.

Bertie

OCDABARTH · « **Reply #1 on:** January 22, 2015, 10:10:53 PM »

although i don't like clay cloths, i have recently bought the carbon collective mitt and it is great! really good product for a bit of time saving if the car isn't in too bad of condition!

A.M

OCDABARTH

Brian1612 · « **Reply #2 on:** February 26, 2015, 09:10:12 AM »

Bert would you dry your car after all the washing is complete or just go straight into this without drying?

I imagine is benefits the lubrication during claying if you don't dry the car, is that correct?

Bertie · « **Reply #3 on:** February 26, 2015, 01:18:33 PM »

Just go straight into it without drying, wash it, then just rinse off the suds and apply iron remover.

You only need the tar remover if you see loads of tar spots!

Bertie

Brian1612 · « **Reply #4 on:** February 26, 2015, 01:31:06 PM »

Would rather just do every step of the process so the car is good for a year at least!

With these products all bought for it should last a while if I only decontaminate my paint once a year

I already have most things, ideally I need a clay mitt, the Iron X for wheels and paintwork and the AF tough prep and tough coat, is once a year a realistic target for such work Bert? or will this process last longer as long as I have some level of protection on my car at all times?

Bertie · « **Reply #5 on:** February 26, 2015, 02:24:02 PM »

Yeah once a year for a full decon and clay is about right

You should consider the whole AF Kit - http://shop.autofinesse.co.uk/tough-coat-paint-sealant-kit

Might work out cheaper than buying things separately, but it depends whether you want to use a mit or not

Then youl just need to top up the tough coat every 4-5 months

Bertie

Brian1612 · « **Reply #6 on:** February 26, 2015, 03:05:04 PM »

Leaning towards the mitt as I have never clayed before Bert, will add up all the products individually with the mitt and see how it compares to the full de-contamination kit from AF!

Looking forward to getting my XL waxybox to see what goodies I get to try out!

As long as Tough Coat creates a nice shine on my paintwork? as being a light colour it is hard to get a good shine off it, hence my thoughts on a wax being the best option.

daniil1990 · « **Reply #7 on:** March 09, 2015, 08:58:11 PM »

after claying do I - Polish > dodo juice Lime Prime Lite > Sealant > Wax ?

Bertie · « **Reply #8 on:** March 09, 2015, 09:13:37 PM »

Pick between a sealant or a wax

If youre going for a sealant, decontaminate and clay, then polish, then use panel wipe or IPA to leave a perfectly clean surface, then apply your sealant.

If you go for wax, decon and clay bar, then use your polish or Dodo Lime Prime, as its a polish as well as pre cleaner, so you dont really need both, then go straight in with your wax

Bertie

daniil1990 · « **Reply #9 on:** March 09, 2015, 09:38:56 PM »

i though i read on detailing world you can seal and wax.

seal locks in polish and wax adds protection?

or does it not work this way?

Bertie · « **Reply #10 on:** March 09, 2015, 09:53:37 PM »

You dont lock in polish, its just an abrasive compound used to shave off a minute layer of your clear coat to remove imperfections. You want it all removed before you apply a sealant or wax, firstly because they wont adhere as well to the paint and secondly because it may dull the appearance of your paintwork (some polishes haze up).

You can use both yes, but if using a sealant first you might lose some of the optical clarity a wax provides.

Bertie

daniil1990 · « **Reply #11 on:** March 15, 2015, 06:10:53 PM »

Just been reading some threads on EGP and noticed autoglym confirms the process of wash > Cleanse > polish > EGP

Won't the IPA remove the polish you just put on?

Thanks,

Brian1612 · « **Reply #12 on:** March 15, 2015, 06:54:53 PM »

No it just removes any residue left behind by the polish after you have buffed the haze off.

daniil1990 · « **Reply #13 on:** March 15, 2015, 08:45:12 PM »

would this remove the fillers?

Bertie · « **Reply #14 on:** March 15, 2015, 08:48:41 PM »

Polish doesnt do anything being left on your car. Its just a cutting compound used to remove a very fine layer of your clear coat to remove any light defects.

Its always best to fully remove it before applying a wax or sealant, unless its a polish / filler combo, in which case you just buff it off.

Thats why after machine polishing you carry out an IPA wipe down, to leave your paint completely clean. Just a polish has no reason to be left on the car, if anythings its doing more damage than good being left on.

Bertie